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Remodel Project
Update 11 |
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| Stone Columns |
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January 5, 2003
I introduced my wife to the fine art of stripping windows. We're
re-using a lot of the old windows, which need to be stripped, repaired,
and re-glazed. It's a lot of work, but it will keep the old feel of
the house, and save a ton of money. She's gone through about three
gallons of stripper by this point. Everybody that sees her doing
this tells me that I owe her...big time. |
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| January 19, 2002
Finished framing and roofing the Bay Window (Bay Winder for you
rednecks). What a pain. That little roof took all day to
frame, flash and roof. The two side wings also have windows, but are
covered with the plywood until I cut the holes out. |
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| Feb. 20, 2003
Stone Porch Column Bases
Since we removed the original brick porch columns last August, the front porch has been been
braced up in the air on 4x4s, not the most desirable condition in
earthquake country (yesterday we had a 5.4 jolt about 40 miles from here
that woke us up). With the weight of the roof, the porch could
easily swing around or bounce up and snap off the house if not strapped to the
ground. So despite my anxiousness to continue framing, I decided to
build the two new stone porch columns with their wooden post
tops. |

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We had been collecting rock for months, stacking them in wire baskets
on pallets, and had about 8 pallets worth (a ton of work in itself).
We got it free from a tract home development that was blasting.
"Shot rock" is easier to build with than river rock, which is
more rounded and harder to stack. Our local rock is blue granite,
which is among the hardest rock in the country. To "trim"
it, you put on safety goggles and whang on it with the biggest sledge
hammer you have. Usually only a tiny piece will chip off, propelled
at supersonic speeds. |
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Building a column is harder than a wall because you have so many
outside corners that you have to find stones with right angles for.
Like the chimney, I strung four plumb lines denoting the outside corners
as a guide to keep the column straight. You set the rocks in a dry
mix of concrete rather than mortar, as the mortar is expensive and
squishes out of the joints too easily, smearing all over the face of the
stone. To build this one column took
twelve 60 lb. sacks of concrete. Rake the joints out to a depth of
1" to be filled in with mortar later. About this point you'll
discover that there's nothing easy about stonework: you're either carrying
rocks, busting rocks, or mixing and lugging concrete. Sore hands and
arms are the rule. |
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As much as possible, stagger the joints so that two rocks are over one,
and one is over two to interlock the column. Do not depend on
concrete to hold the rocks in place: build it so that it "falls
in" on itself.
The process is to build a box, then fill in the box with concrete and
rubble, working your way up layer by layer. Rocks can be braced in
place with shims of split rock, then concreted in place. The process
goes slow as you hunt for the right rock to fit the opening, and you may
have to trim it some, not an exact process (they don't always break where
you want). |
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| I strapped the 4x4 post to the porch roof, and clamped the
Simpson post anchor to the bottom to show where the top of the column will
be. Since the column will get a 4" concrete cap, I built the
column up to 3" from the post base. Compact the joints
with a stick, and rake them out 1" deep, and sweep off any crumbs or
smears of concrete. Go inside and soak your aching body in a hot
tub, and do the other column next Saturday. |
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The joints are filled in with a pastry bag filled with SpecMix
mortar. After the joint sets up a bit, tool the joint with a
pointing trowel. If the mortar becomes wet as you tool it, you need
to wait a little longer. For this mortar style, I fill the joint
pretty much flush with the face of the stone. After the mortar sets
up a little more, I brush it with a wire brush to roughen the surface
slightly, then with a whisk broom to remove the crumbs. Let this set
up overnight. For deep parts, you may have to do two coats. |
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Feb. 28, 2003
The concrete caps are formed by 2x4s clamped around the column base,
and another set of 2x4s actually forming the cap. A grid of rebar is
suspended in the middle. Carefully level and square the forms,
and fill with 5000 PSI concrete. Run a palm sander around the
outside of the form to vibrate the concrete to settle it and fill any
voids, and tool the top edges to a curve. Allow to cure a day,
keeping it damp. |
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| The second column is done the same way. This one went
a little easier- maybe the rocks are getting softer (or maybe I'm getting
better at it!). |
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| 3/3/03
Sheesh, what a pain that was. This will have to do for now, as I
have to get back to framing.
The final step on the concrete caps will be to fill any voids left with a mixture of two
parts fine silica sand, one part cement, mixed with water containing white
glue. Polish with a steel trowel. The column will later get a
tapered plywood column on top that boxes in the 4x4 post.
The final step for the joints will be to apply a mortar
"bead". This is a prominent feature in a lot of stonework
from the early 1900's we've seen. A bead of mortar is applied with a
pastry bag, and then tooled with a home-made sheet-metal beading tool to
make a raised profile. This makes the shape of the rocks appear more
uniform. |
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